Showing posts tagged pinot noir

Wow! This was an eye-eponer: Zahner Truttiker Stiefelhalder pinot noir 2007. A pleasant surprise (to me) to find that a wine grown just a few kilometers outside Zurich could be so beautiful. Amazing pure transparent pinot noir, delicate yet intense, fresh and crisp yet complex and silky, precise and focussed yet rewarding and flowing. Made without any barrique, alegedly; certainly free from any of the aromatic character of new oak, just the mellowing, harmonising benefits of aging in old wood perhaps. Not a flashy wine, but compelling, enthralling, fascinating to the end of the bottle. Proabably wouldn’t appeal to modernists; but a great example of showcasing nothing but the grape and the site.

Grateful to the knowledgeable and fun Felix Christen for guiding us into this selection, and for excellent conversation while savouring it at the Widder.

A real delight from Switzerland, Georg Fromm’s Malanser Pinot Noir 2007; Malans, in the canton of Graubünden, a short distance outside Zurich, in Eastern Switzerland, while not unknown, is not high on the radar of world wine. Georg Fromm, however, became reasonably well known for making some of the finest pinot noir wines in New Zealand. He has since sold the ownership of the New Zealand winery, but perhaps some of the ‘New World’ approachability still expresses itself in this wine from the ancestral winery. This 2007 Malanser was beautiful: lovely soft expressive red-berry fruit, silky smooth contemporary styling of the palate; and (despite the warning-sign on the label that this was a ‘barrique’ wine) the oak was beautifully integrated. A lovely, elegant expression of contemporary pinot noir.